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Camera set up from scratch


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#1 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 02:20 PM

I feel such a dullard. I know nothing and it all seems like dark magic. 

 

I have 2k+ jumps and several hundred with a GoPro. Mostly a chin mount on a Kiss but also on top of my PhantomX on occasion and sometimes as a chest mount. It's all just turn on and see what you get.

 

Now that I've decided I want a camera helmet I'm finding my feet in a totally new part of skydiving!

 

I want:

- something suitable for 4wayFS, bigwayFS and filming tandems

- good products for a fair price. 

- lightweight

- stills

- video

- backup

 

I've recently been gifted a 2KC Kryten so I'm starting with that, although I do lust after a Tonfly 3x but £££.

 

I've been asking lots of people and the suggestions I have so far are:

 

- Sony NEX-3N (stills)

- Sony 16mm pancake 16f28 SEL

- Sony Action Cam either the Sony AS200, or FDR-X1000V (4k), or the latest FDR-X3000 (4k with optical steadyshot).

 

And then all the other parahernalia. Mounts, ringsight, etc etc

 

Any thoughts on this gear?


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#2 nigelh

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 04:59 PM

Good camera choice,

This helmet would work well with that setup: https://www.tonfly.com/helmet.php?id=5

 

Newton sight from Larsen Brusgaard does the job with the articulating bracket and swivel clamp


Edited by nigelh, 28 June 2017 - 05:00 PM.

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#3 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 07:03 PM

Good camera choice,

 

Cheers, good to know from multiple sources.

 

PS Nigel, the keyboard warrior, has a helpful charming side too? What changed?  :P


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#4 Jason Kelleher

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 07:15 PM

+1 for the X1000V - although I haven't used the new X3000.

 

My 4x Top is also great  - but yes, costly. That said, I know I'll never need another camera helmet, although I may want one... y'know... :P


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#5 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 07:30 PM

This helmet would work well with that setup: https://www.tonfly.com/helmet.php?id=5

 

Newton sight from Larsen Brusgaard does the job with the articulating bracket and swivel clamp

 

Yeah, I love the Tonfly stuff, I did look at the 2.5x that you linked to but my heart is with the 3x. Anyways, I have a Kryten that fits for now. Just need a new liner... daft question time... do I buy a liner to "fit" my head, or will the camera shake be reduced if I choose a slightly snugger fit and go 1cm smaller? Hmmmm. I think I think too much.

 

I hadn't realised that L&B do removable ring sights. If I ever get my 3x I may well grab one for it, in the meantime, the Kryten will be a dedicated camera only helmet. 


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#6 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 11:32 AM

Too much to choose from... Has someone got a list of the pros and cons of bite/blow/tongue switches? :-/


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#7 Chris Smith

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 11:47 AM

Too much to choose from... Has someone got a list of the pros and cons of bite/blow/tongue switches? :-/

Cant beat a bit of tongue..... :P   Personally i found the bite switch a tad big and after 5/6 jumps i actually bit through it causing a short circuit, stuck with a tongue switch after that and found it easy to use.  :thumbs:


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#8 degeneration

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 12:30 PM

I know we've also been talking on fb, but other pros cons:

Tongue/bite generally have a shorter life span than blow switches. They suffer abuse through handling and through oral manipulation. So the actual wiring etc is being pressured every time. They do break. After how long, will depend on how you treat them. Blow switches though, the actual switch part is generally tucked safely in your helmet. Only a tube goes to your mouth that you can chomp on etc if you so desire, and if the tube breaks, just get a new one, which is not expensive at all. So the blow switch is protected from impacts and handling abuse considerably more than a tongue or blow.

 

You'll get tactile feedback using tongue or bite switches, so you should be able to tell that the switch has been pressed. You don't get that with a blow switch (or at least not with mine or others that I'm aware of). With the blow switch, you just blow some pressure down the tube and assume you are blowing at the required pressure to activate the switch. 

 

Some (all? not sure. Mine are.) blow switches have adjustable sensitivity, so you can change the required pressure from your blow to activate the shutter so you can set it at a level that you'll know it is working with a puff of a specific pressure.

 

Blow switches are modularised - tubing, switch, camera connector. If one bit breaks you can just replace the broken bit and keep using the other bits, so potentially could work out cheaper in the long run, depending on relative life spans of each part here compared to lifespan of a typical bite/tongue switch.


Edited by degeneration, 29 June 2017 - 12:31 PM.

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#9 nigelh

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 06:42 PM

I have a sky systems blow switch, I can hear it click when I blow..... (That sounds so wrong)


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#10 nigelh

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 06:43 PM

Nuno makes the Ultimate Switch, He's at Skydive Seven in Portugal


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#11 Chris Smith

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 09:18 PM

I know we've also been talking on fb, but other pros cons:

Tongue/bite generally have a shorter life span than blow switches. They suffer abuse through handling and through oral manipulation. So the actual wiring etc is being pressured every time. They do break. After how long, will depend on how you treat them. 

Never had a problem with tongue switch had one on my F/F side mount for fun jumps and one on top mount for Tandems/formation jumping, did about 1100 jumps (most with top mount) and still have both and still work even though i have stopped jumping i still use them as remote switches for tripod pic taking (both about 9/10 yrs old now) just my 2p worth  :)


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#12 degeneration

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 10:37 PM

Never had a problem with tongue switch had one on my F/F side mount for fun jumps and one on top mount for Tandems/formation jumping, did about 1100 jumps (most with top mount) and still have both and still work even though i have stopped jumping i still use them as remote switches for tripod pic taking (both about 9/10 yrs old now) just my 2p worth  :)

 

You treat them well then! 

 

I have a sky systems blow switch, I can hear it click when I blow..... (That sounds so wrong)

 

Interesting, and I more or less stand corrected! 
The ones I make are silent.


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#13 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 01 July 2017 - 01:37 AM

I have a sky systems blow switch, I can hear it click when I blow..... (That sounds so wrong)


Do you hear the camera click or the switch click?
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#14 nigelh

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Posted 01 July 2017 - 10:08 AM

I had a DSLR so heard both


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#15 degeneration

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Posted 01 July 2017 - 10:43 AM

I had a DSLR so heard both

 

Out of interest, what type of pressure switch does it use, as the ones I use for mine, there's nothing moving that could click! Be interested to see the different form/types out there, as I know very, very little about other ones that are available.


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#16 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 02:45 PM

I thought the advice below, from an experienced camera flyer friend of mine, was gold, absolute gold and worth sharing...

 

Ref your camera helmet discussion on UKS, my 2p:
 
- I did like Tonyfly 4x however I am now leaning to the Cookie Fuel with the wide top plate. Among other things Tonyfly use a plastic strip around the edge of the helmet which has been a recurring problem for durability on a string of 2KC helmets I’ve had. Get a removable, washable/replaceable liner if possible. Get a ratchet chin-cup as this will have a big impact on reducing camera shake and consistent sighting.
 
- Blow switch. I have an Ultimate one. I destroyed a pair of bite switches in days, and found the tongue switch too fickle. As others point out, no moving parts on a blow switch and if you chew the end of the pipe just cut it down or replace it. Why do you need feedback in freefall? - if it's not working what can you do about it? Just get used to the pressure needed. I don't think you will break a blow switch blowing too hard, you might just shoot a bigger burst of shots.
 
- Get a Schumacher removable articulating mount. You can take the sight off and protect it when travelling or if you are reconfiguring your helmet a lot between jumps and don’t need it. Under canopy you can flick the sight out of the way of your eye. I don’t think face-planting with a metal sight will be good for your vision. Make sure you cut down the metal rod excess to remove the snag hazard (pet hate!). Attach the sight plate to your helmet with plastic screws so in theory your sight will snap off in the event of a snag.
 
- STOW YOUR BRAKE LINE EXCESS. ALWAYS. On my canopy it will reach down and hook around my sight and I have done so, accompanied by a brake fire and twists. Which is sporty on a small canopy, especially if you don't want to snap off your £300 ring sight.
 
- If you are serious about filming 4-way where the accuracy of your sighting is critical for that first point out of the door get the Newton concentric rings site. where sighting accuracy is critical the L&B sights are better than an orange ring with a dot as they give instant feedback if the sighting is out. For other stuff maybe simpler will do?
 
- You will need to clean and oil the articulating ring sight mechanism periodically, especially if you’ve been jumping somewhere dusty.
 
- No comment on camera types. I’m not familiar with the small Sony video cameras. I’ve not heard anyone say anything negative about them and if I was to buy now they would be the first thing I would look at. I've seen several people with the repeater TV display on their wrist which greatly helps with workflow rammed in the back of a a plane with no traditional flip out screen. Small Sonys seem to be good for stills (I have one for non-jumping), although there are plenty of model flavours. IMHO GoPro is poor quality for stills – good enough for FB posts, but very poor for big mag blow ups or framing on a wall. I can instantly spot every GoPro shot in every sports mag I look at.
 
- Have a think about how you will mount your camera to your helmet. Specifically, you are likely to need access to battery/charge socket, memory card/USB while the plate is on. If you take the plate off for that, how much of a faff will it be re-sighting accurately?  Some of the different plates will cover up different parts of the base of the stills camera.
 
- Get a camera suit with booties, if you haven’t already. Take it in the wind tunnel.
 
Cheers
 
PS No one size fits all people or type of camera-work. However there are some fundamental safety basics like plastic screws, trimming the rod excess and stowing your brakeline excess.

 

 


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#17 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 12:17 PM

I was reminded of this:

 

Attached File  Screen Shot 2017-07-05 at 13.12.59.png   1.29MB   2 downloads

 

Full pdf of the cover here:

Attached File  2005-10_Frt-cover-Skydive-the-Mag.pdf   399.43KB   6 downloads

 

I am very happy I'm doing this in 2017 and not 2005.


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#18 Chris Smith

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 09:00 PM

 

 

I am very happy I'm doing this in 2017 and not 2005.

Thats why Mr Danbury had about a 17 1/2 neck size yet weighs about 7 1/2 stone wet through  :scream:


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#19 BlueSkyBri

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 09:12 PM

I'm aiming for super-lightweight, so potentially not using any mounts. But I need access to the underside of the cameras to access the batteries.

 

I'm currently onto cardboard draft 3 of a top plate to mount the cameras too. 

 

I also have some 3mm plywood (5 A4 sheets for £6 inc postage) for proper drafts and will be ordering a 3mm carbon fibre plate, about £40, in due course. 

 

I'm kinda hoping for bad weather so I can really look at this and make some progress. 


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